How to Grow and Care for Roses

Roses have a reputation for being fussy, but most modern roses are far tougher than people think. Give them sun, good soil, steady water and a yearly prune, and they’ll reward you with months of blooms. This guide walks through how to plant roses, how to prune and deadhead them, how and when to feed, and how to handle the handful of pests and diseases that turn up.

How to plant roses

Plant bare-root roses in early spring while they’re still dormant, or plant potted roses any time from spring through early fall. Choose a spot with at least six hours of direct sun and good air circulation — morning sun that dries the leaves quickly helps prevent disease.

Dig a hole roughly 18 inches wide and deep, and work in plenty of compost or well-rotted manure. Position the plant so the graft union (the knobby swelling where the rose was grafted onto its rootstock) sits at soil level in mild climates, or about 2 inches below the surface where winters are cold. Backfill, firm the soil gently, water deeply, and add a 2–3 inch layer of mulch, keeping it a few inches away from the stems.

• Space bush roses 2–3 feet apart for airflow
• Soak bare-root roses in water for a few hours before planting
• Water new roses deeply every few days for the first month

Rose care: sun, water and soil

Roses are thirsty plants. Water deeply once or twice a week rather than a little every day — aim for about an inch of water that soaks down to the roots and encourages them to grow deep. Water at the base in the morning and try to keep the foliage dry, since wet leaves invite black spot and mildew.

Keep a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base year-round to hold moisture, suppress weeds and feed the soil as it breaks down. Roses prefer rich, well-drained soil that’s slightly acidic; if your blooms are pale or growth is weak, a soil test will tell you whether you need to adjust.

How to prune roses

Pruning is the single most important thing you can do for a rose. It removes old, unproductive wood, opens the center to light and air, and channels the plant’s energy into strong new stems and bigger blooms. The best time to prune most roses is in late winter or early spring, just as the buds begin to swell — a classic cue is when the forsythia blooms in your area.

Use clean, sharp bypass pruners and wear thick gloves. Work through the plant in this order:

1. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood, cutting back to healthy green growth.
2. Take out thin, weak or crossing stems, and any that rub against each other.
3. Open up the center of the plant so it forms a vase shape that lets air and light in.
4. Shorten the remaining healthy canes, always cutting about a quarter-inch above an outward-facing bud at a 45-degree angle sloping away from the bud.

How hard should you prune?

How much you cut back depends on the type of rose. Hybrid teas and floribundas bloom on new growth and respond to hard pruning — cutting them back by about a third to a half produces strong stems and large flowers. Shrub roses, old garden roses and climbers need a lighter touch: just remove dead wood, thin out congestion and shorten as needed to shape. Climbers are pruned mainly to remove old canes and tie in new ones, since their main flowering shoots come off a permanent framework.

How to deadhead roses

Deadheading — removing faded flowers — keeps repeat-blooming roses producing all season. Once a bloom fades, follow the stem down to the first leaf with five leaflets that faces outward, and cut just above it. This directs new growth outward and encourages another flush of flowers.

Deadhead regularly through summer, but stop about six weeks before your first expected frost. Letting the last blooms form hips (seed pods) signals the plant to slow down and harden off for winter. If you grow roses for their decorative hips, skip deadheading those varieties in late summer altogether.

Feeding roses

Roses are heavy feeders. Begin feeding in spring once you’ve pruned and new leaves appear, using a balanced fertilizer or one formulated for roses. Feed again after each major flush of blooms to fuel the next. Always water well before and after feeding so the roots take up nutrients without burning.

Stop feeding six to eight weeks before your first frost — late feeding pushes out tender new growth that won’t survive the cold. In fall, a top-dressing of compost feeds the soil gently over winter without stimulating growth.

Common rose problems and pests

A few issues turn up on almost every rose. Black spot is the most common: dark spots ringed with yellow, followed by falling leaves. Improve air circulation, water at the base, clean up fallen leaves, and remove affected foliage promptly. Powdery mildew (a white, dusty coating) appears in humid conditions and responds to the same airflow-focused care.

Aphids cluster on new buds and shoots — blast them off with water or use insecticidal soap. Japanese beetles chew flowers and leaves and are best hand-picked into soapy water. Choosing disease-resistant varieties from the start prevents most trouble before it begins.

Rose growing FAQs

When should I prune my roses?

Prune most roses in late winter or early spring, just as the buds begin to swell — around the time forsythia blooms. This removes old wood before the growing season and channels energy into strong new flowering stems. Old-fashioned once-blooming roses are the exception; prune those right after they finish flowering.

How do you deadhead roses?

Follow a spent flower down the stem to the first leaf with five leaflets that faces outward, and cut just above it at a slight angle. This encourages a new outward-facing shoot and another round of blooms. Deadhead through summer, then stop about six weeks before your first frost.

How often should I water roses?

Water deeply once or twice a week so about an inch of water soaks down to the roots, rather than shallow daily sprinkles. Water at the base in the morning and keep the leaves dry. Roses in pots, sandy soil or hot climates need watering more often.

Why is my rose not blooming?

The usual causes are too little sun (roses need 6+ hours), pruning at the wrong time, over-feeding with high-nitrogen fertilizer (which favors leaves over flowers), or simply not deadheading repeat bloomers. Check sunlight first, then feeding and pruning habits.

What is the best fertilizer for roses?

A balanced fertilizer or a product formulated for roses works well. Start feeding in spring after pruning and leaf-out, then feed again after each bloom flush, watering well each time. Stop six to eight weeks before frost so you don’t encourage tender late growth.

Why are my rose leaves turning yellow?

Yellowing leaves often mean overwatering or poor drainage, a nutrient shortfall (especially nitrogen or iron), or the fungal disease black spot. Check that the soil drains well, feed if growth is weak, and remove any spotted leaves to stop disease spreading.

How much sun do roses need?

Roses need at least six hours of direct sunlight a day, and morning sun is ideal because it dries dew off the leaves quickly and reduces disease. In very hot climates, a little afternoon shade helps protect the blooms from scorching.

Learn more about the rose in our rose flower profile and rose meaning guide, or see why it’s the June birth flower.